A perfect girl’s dress! New Look 6205

Simplicity New Look 6205
New Look 6205

I’ve always found it hard buying dresses for my Little Miss; she’s a good height for her age but narrow/slender. If we buy the right length, invariably the bodice is too big with straps falling off her shoulders, necklines gaping, armholes bagging. Knowing we had a family gathering coming up in a couple of days, I decided to step up to the plate and start sewing for her!

I decided upon New Look 6205, having seen a gorgeous version of it made up by Thread Carefully. Minerva Crafts also showcased it as a Pattern of the Week recently highlighting some great fabric and notions. The pattern itself has a couple of sleeve variations and styling options. I love them all but decided to first go with View D, as the sleeve/straps really appealed to me; at last she’d have a dress where they wouldn’t be falling off her shoulders every two seconds! The pattern calls for only the bodice to be lined but I figure it would be simple enough to turn this into a full-on party frock by adding extra skirting layers and lining. My husband chose the fabric and I’m really glad he did; it’s a gorgeous poplin from Minerva Crafts (see here)

I cut a size 4 in terms of chest measurements/width and lengthened all the pieces to an age 6 based on her age/height. I made up a full muslin as I mainly wanted to check how the bodice lining went together. I’m glad I did as this had me befuddled for a wee while until the ol’ brain went ‘ping’ and I realised I was merely overthinking it. Basically, you pin and sew at the armhole ‘U’, with the already lined and attached straps sandwiched down inside between the two layers. You then turn the lining to the inside. But this still leaves the neckline with a raw edge which you then have to finish with bias binding. Which seems a bit odd. The instructions call for you to machine stitch the bias down on the inside. On the finalised version I decided to hand slip stitch it to the lining instead for a cleaner finish.

Simplicity New Look 6205

You then hem the skirt (I used my Clover Hot Hemmer for the first time and it was fab, I swear it’s the neatest hem I’ve sewn!) image  and then the skirt is attached to the bodice as normal. I overlocked the seam for a decent finish, however it would be cleaner to have had the bodice lining enclose this seam really. But again is this overthinking?! I swear ‘Sarah Smith, overthinking everything since the day she was born’ will be my epitaph.

The last thing to do then was a lapped zip. Another first for me having only recently conquered the invisible zip. I was literally dreading this bit as it was getting late in the evening and was worried I would mess up the whole project hours before we were due to pack and travel up country.

And then guess what. My sewing machine decided to throw a wobbly, chewing up fabric and nesting thread all over the place. I swore like a trooper. Which is putting it mildly. The husband popped his head around the door, saw me bent over the machine with a screwdriver in my hand and promptly turned on his heel and scarpered! Thankfully removing the throat plate and bobbin holder, cleaning and putting it back again, twice, replacing the needle and rethreading solved the problem. It was now ridiculously late; being 1 am.

Simplicity New Look 6205
New Look 6205

I gritted my teeth and ploughed on. Thankfully I’d taken notes from a blog post tutorial by Lauren of Lladybird earlier in the day which is brilliant and meant that the lapped zipper was finished in no time. They’re incredibly easy to put in actually, if you too haven’t done one before, and I really like the finish.

It was now 2 am. I cleared away and went to bed getting up just 4 hrs later with just the hook and eye to hand stitch in, which I did in the car en route. With a banging headache.

image
Instagram

💕💕 But I absolutely love 💕💕 the resultant dress, as does the Little Miss.💕💕

Until next time

Sarah X

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8 Comments Add yours

  1. Marie says:

    I’m struggling a bit with the bodice 😣
    For some reason I just can’t figure it out. Do I leave a raw edge at just the neck and body?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Marie. Ah yes, I know what you mean, when it comes to lining the bodice you need to attach the lining at the underarms only (right sides facing, in a sort of a V shape) with the sleeves tucked downwards and sandwiched in between the lining layer and the bodice layer. Pin this area in place making sure that the sleeve joins are laying flat at the seam line. (Once pinned It will not be flat at this point and is a bit fiddly, it helps to visualise that you’re sewing a 3D shape) You’re right, the neckline is NOT sewn at this point, neither are the side and bottom seams! Once you’ve sewn the underarms turn the lining to the inside, then switch to a basting stitch and baste the remaining seams (neckline, sides and bottom). The raw neckline will be finished with bias binding at the next step. The instructions tell you to attach the binding from the right side, (set a little lower down from the raw edge), turn it to the inside and then topstitch in place. I always hand-stitch it so you don’t get the line of stitches at the neckline and it gives a much smoother appearance. I hope this helps! Let me know, Sarah x

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  2. So sweet and cut. The patchwork fabric is really beautiful. The pink colors suits her well.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you! I was unsure about the fabric at first but I agree it turned out to be perfect!

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  3. Claire says:

    Looks lovely! I love working with poplin!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Anya says:

    I love how it turned out!! She looks so pretty in it! And the fabric is gorgeous. Oh boy, the dress has quite a story eh? I am glad it all worked out and I hope you got some sleep eventually!

    p.s. I love your new layout!!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Haha, it was a bit of a saga in the end! Cheers!
      Aww thanks. Yeah I’m much happier with the new layout; more ‘me’ I hope. I’m so glad you like it. I feel like I’ve cleaned house!! But, y’know, without actually getting off the sofa! Win win xx

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